A hand resting on a glass of red wine on a wooden counter

The wines

One wine at a time.

No list, no catalogue. Each case is a single wine, with somebody behind it whose first name, cellar and handshake we know. The one exception, at Christmas: the mixed case, half red, half white.

Right nowOn our radarThe cellar

Right now

Who squeezed your grapes?

With most wine, you never find out. With ours, you will know exactly who made every bottle, where, and why it tastes the way it does.

For now, one name: Éric Darles, eight generations in Irancy, a little César in his pinot noir and, above all, Les Boudardes, a lieu-dit, a named plot whose generous exposure to the sun gives this wine its structure and its aromas. In time this page will grow into a collection: one grower after another, each a new chapter.

Éric Darles behind the counter of his vaulted cellar in Irancy, talking with Marcel

Irancy · Bourgogne

Éric Darles, Irancy

Éric did not simply inherit these vines; he inherited the weight of them. His father held them from his, who held them from his before that: eight generations, perhaps nine, standing in the same village, watching the same rows fall asleep each winter and wake again each spring. Some of his plots give so little that, in certain seasons, the land will not fill a single tank.

Éric's own page on the Irancy growers' site.

We spent a good while in his vaulted cellar, glass in hand, asking questions. He answered every one. Film 01, just below: eight minutes in Irancy, from the slopes to the cellar, and you will know who you are dealing with.

« I am not going to work all year growing fine grapes and making fine wine, only to put a wall of oak in front of it and lose the wine behind. »
Éric Darles
The village
Irancy, Burgundy. A stone’s throw from Chablis. Boudardes, like La Palotte, is a named plot under discussion for a possible cru classification; Éric has vines in both.
The grape
Pinot noir for the red, with a little César, the old local grape found almost nowhere but Irancy, which gives the wine its backbone. He also makes a white from pinot gris, since 1993.
The ageing
In barrels three to eight years old. Never a new one.
The family
In the vines since the seventeenth century.
Where we are
The red is chosen: Irancy “Boudardes” 2019, £240 for six, delivery included. It is on the home page with the white and the mixed case, ready to reserve for Christmas.
The films

Three films with this wine.

The grower in his cellar, Marcel with the bottle open, and the two of us at the table. Every wine we send comes with its own three.

Film 01 · 7 min

The Grower

Eight minutes with the man who made your wine: his family's vines since 1600, the slopes, the weather, the old barrels, and why you can only measure terroir in the glass.

Full screenIts own page

Film 02 · 3 min

The Tasting

One bottle, one glass, half an hour of air. Three minutes with Marcel and the wine you will be drinking, no script.

Full screenIts own page

Film 03 · 8 min

The Table

The two of us at a café table in Dijon, the night the plan was made. Not about this bottle: about the two people who chose it.

Full screenIts own page

People on the list hear first.

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Film 02 · Marcel and the wine

What to look for in the glass.

Marcel opened a bottle of the Boudardes 2019 in Dijon, gave it half an hour, and told us what he found. Three minutes, no script.

Irancy “Boudardes” 2019 · tasted in Dijon, September 2026

Marcel and the wine

One bottle, one glass, half an hour of air. He speaks English in the film; the subtitles follow the language of the page.

What to take away

  1. Give it half an hour. Just opened, it is jammy red fruit and cherry. After thirty minutes, flowers start to come through.
  2. Straight and tense. Good acidity holds the wine upright; the fruit leads, with a soupçon of spice on the tongue.
  3. Drinking it young? Bring protein. The tannins are softening but still a little drying. Cheese or meat binds them, and that is the secret.
  4. Or wait. It will happily keep a few years before you open it.
“You remember this wine. You remember it for a long time.”
Marcel, on the Boudardes

Watch Film 02 · 3 min

Marcel from behind, hands on a viewpoint table, looking out over the vineyards of Chablis
On our radar

Where we are looking.

You cannot choose a wine from a catalogue. You go, you taste, you talk, you come back. Here is where we have been, and whose door we mean to knock on next.

Marcel walking away along a lane beside the vines at Châteauneuf-du-Pape, in the evening lightTasted on the spotChâteauneuf-du-PapeWhere everything was said. Tastings with the neighbours, cicadas in the background. Marcel crouching among the vines in Chablis, looking at a vineVines walkedChablisA night in town, then the plots on foot, fingers in the fossil oysters. Marcel at a stone wall with a bottle and bread, the basilica of Vézelay behind himTasted on the spotVézelayA bottle opened on the steps, facing the basilica. For science.
On the listGigondasRed that stands up on its own. Drink it with lamb shoulder and rosemary.
On the listCairanneFruit and garrigue. With a guinea fowl roasted in thyme.
On the listTavel · LiracProof a rosé can be serious. Well chilled, with bouillabaisse.

We only name a grower the day his wine goes into your cases.

The cellar

The wines before.

For now the cellar is empty, as it should be: the first case has not left yet. After that, every wine keeps its page here, with:

  • The film we shot at the grower’s.
  • The honest sheet: who, where, how, and why it tastes the way it does.
  • Marcel’s tip, and the right moment to open each of the six.
  • A button to order more, while there is any left.
A wall of bottles lying on their sides in a cellar

Burgundy · September 2026

Questions

About Éric and the wine.

Who is Éric Darles?

A grower in Irancy, in the north of Burgundy, a stone's throw from Chablis, working vines his family has held for generations. He is our first grower, and we went to see him and filmed what we found.

What is Irancy?

A small red-wine village in northern Burgundy. Pinot noir from the cold edge of the region, with a little César, an old local grape found almost nowhere else, which gives the wine its backbone.

What is “Boudardes”?

The name of the plot the 2019 comes from. Like La Palotte, it is one of the named plots in Irancy under discussion for a possible cru classification.

How should I serve it?

Not too warm. The school's serving temperature lesson gives the simple numbers, and the tasting book that comes with the case says what to eat with it.

Join the list.

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